It's raining again so we did what I think you are supposed to do in Italy, go to a castle and focus on food. I am copying information from the Malcesine visitor page regarding the history of the Scaliger Castle of Malcesine. The background of so many places we have visited is different from anything we normally experience. Feel free to skip this if you don't want a history lesson. I have no idea how they figure this all out.
"The fortress of Malcesine dates back to the last centuries of the first millenium B.C. even if some other well-founded sources maintain that the first to build the castle were the Longobards around the half of the first millenium A.D.
The castle was destroyed by the Franks in 590 A.D. and then rebuilt. In 806 the building hosted king Pepin, who came to Malcesine to visit the Saints Benigno and Caro and, after the Hungarians invasions, it was included in the episcopal feud of Verona. It was under Alberto della Scala's and his family's control from 1277 to 1387.
During this period the Scaliger renovated the fortress which started to be referred to as "Scaliger castle" and it was occupied by the House of Visconti from 1387 to 1403.
Two years later, it was incorporated into the dominion of the Republic of Venice and remained under its control until 1506 when it was conquered by the Empire. The castle changed hands several times: it was owned by the Republic of Venice once again from 1516 to 1797, then by the French, followed by the Austrians which accomplished significant strengthening works inside the building and remained here from 1798 to 1866.
From that year on, it became a Venetian's ownership. On 22 August 1902 the castle was declared a national monument."
What they don't tell you here is that the views from the castle are amazing. The views were used to defend the area but today are just wonderful to see. As with most good views climbing is required. The stairs were much less rickety than others we have encountered but there were over 100 of them. I made it almost to the top. The last floor appeared pretty open and it was really windy. I can only push myself so far. Jack did go to the top and enjoyed the view. It was interesting walking through and reading about the history of the castle. All of the rooms have been converted to information sources so I don't know how it was set up originally.
From the castle we went to a little osteria. It appeared to be in a couple of caves connected to each other. It sat about 10 people per room with some tables set up outside as well. We had one of the rooms to ourselves. The waiter did not speak English but we got by with pointing. Some of the menu was in English. I had eggplant parmigiana and Jack had vegetable soup and chicken curry. I thought the curry was an odd item to have on a menu that was limited, and obviously focused on Italian dishes. It is something that I've seen on other menus so I guess it is a thing here as well. One added thing about the restaurant was that two of Hemingway's pictures were there. So he may have been there.
We chatted with a man from Germany at lunch. He walked past our table and heard us talking and asked if we were English. When we told him we were from America he started talking about Trump and referred to him as crazy. He shared that he lived in America for a few years and he thinks we have a great Constitution outlining the best government in the world. He can't believe that it allows a criminal like Trump to run for President. Every encounter we have had with Europeans since starting our trip, has been the same when it comes to Trump. On at least six occasions people have brought up Trump when they heard we were from America. They all think he is awful. He has been referred to as a con man and criminal and the IQ of some Americans who support him has been questioned. This has come up with people from Montenegro, Canada, England, New Zealand, and Germany. This is only a snapshot based upon our experience, but it appears that European's see Trump more clearly than many Americans. I'm guessing their media might not include as many far right stations.
On a lighter note, on the way back from lunch we did a little shopping and found a restaurant for dinner. It's important to plan ahead. The restaurant is called Trattoria Da Nonna Pina. With a name like that we figured it had to be good. We did check the menu and were pleased with the options. It did not disappoint. I had bruschetta that had tomatoes, pesto, and an olive pate, all on different pieces of bread and it was delicious. I also had pumpkin ravioli with toasted almonds and Jack had wild boar stew. Everything was delicious. We are definitely not eating our usual fare and we are enjoying all the experiences.
(If I have grandkids, I wonder if I should have them call me Nonna and continue with the Italian girl name even though I'm Irish???) Probably not.
Castle pictures/views
Traces of a fresco which probably belonged to an old Scaliger chapel.
Some of the tower stairs
.
Enduring the climb seems to have been worth it. Eating authentic Italian food in a cave seems romantic somehow.
ReplyDelete